Starting from the Ground Up -Craftsman Style

So we bought a typical California Craftsman House here in San Diego and it has been an interesting education. Before landing here I really had no idea what a Craftsman House was and I most likely would have guessed that you were talking about a house built by a carpenter. I won't bore you with the details of what exactly a craftsman is, I'll leave you the wiki link above for that. What I will tell you is how this house and I are adjusting and or changing each other.

When I thought of wooden floors this is what would I think of:

But, this is what I got:
Plain light oak strips everywhere in no imaginative pattern. As you can tell from the photo I got some work done on them. The wood expert I hired did a great job of removing years of neglectful pet stains, water marks and other random stains. All that to have it stained to my whim of ebony meets red cherry. It turned out really well. As it happens one good person (the wood expert) knows another and before I knew it I had painters too.

Whilst here in the US it is very common for people to paint their own house I was very uncomfortable with the idea partly due to the fact that all the walls had been BADLY plastered or as they call it here "texturized." The texture was more akin to what you would find in a non-frost free refrigerator after a few years of neglect. So I had them try to undo all the "texture" which took a long time and was a dusty explosion of a mess (as you can see).
The photo below is the color I settled on for the living room (yellow) looking into the dinning room (red). The yellow is very cheery and reminds me of Italy. An interesting cultural footnote is that in Naples if your house is painted yellow then you've paid your dues to the mob so that you can be left alone or so they say.

As you can see I have rails on the walls for hanging paintings (at least that is what I think they are for). Would you trust these rails or just go ahead and use picture hanging nails?
In the photo below you see the entryway to the left is to the kitchen, which I had painted a more vibrant scarlet red and then to the right is the hallway to the bedrooms which is actually painted a sand color. As you can see the floors came out brilliantly (that is when there isn't dog hair on them).
Finally, the most essential room in my house: the kitchen. Here is where the cultural differences are great. First of all this is the first time in my life that I own or have a micowave. This is also the first time in over a decade that there is a non-human dishwasher in the kitchen. In Naples we could never find a rental that had one because they are very uncommon. Many Neapolitans would tell me that a machine could never do as good a job as a good hand washing (I beg to differ). The other difference here is that there is no clothes washer in the kitchen which in all candor is a convenient place for it.

What bothers me most about my new American kitchen? I don't have a scolapiatti in the cupboard. A scolapiatti is a dish drying rack that fits into the cupboard above the sink so that it is hidden away from sight. The water that comes from the dishes either pools in a pan that is the bottom of the cupboard or it just drains directly into the sink (your choice really). I have yet to see this great invention here. Instead I have this big rack on the countertop which drives me crazy when it drains onto the floor. How is it that the scolapiatti can't even be found here? (hint this is a million dollar idea for someone).
N.B. Speaking of kitchens and all things cooking - I have a new survey up on the site (hint hint all of you feed readers) and I would like to know if you want to hear more about food -click on the survey and let me know!

Must see in Napoli

Can you believe I spent $3.75 on a bottle of tomato sauce from Naples? The same passata rustica that I would buy for .70 Euro for in Naples. What's worse is that I found myself sniffing the bottle -not to see if it went bad but to smell the wonderful smell of a real sunshine tomato. I miss the tomatoes badly. I bought some here and was very disappointed. I've been frequenting the farmers market too -yes, I'm that weird lady sniffing every batch of tomatoes and none compare.

So, I was thinking about the other things that I miss from Naples and the surrounding area. Things that an ordinary tourist might not see and so I've compiled a little list for you from an insiders perspective.

1. For the best marble statues the Museo Cappella Sansevero. Here you'll find the famous veiled Christ. You must walk slowly counter clockwise and you can see the veil appear to move (as in breathing) --spooky. It is a small space with lots of great marble works and in the basement is a special surprise. The neighborhood it is in really neat and well worth an entire day. You'll find goldsmiths, important churches, a really great printer (who makes paper and journals), creches, pizzeries, antique stores and just normal life in the big city.
2. Capodimonte Museum and Park (the park is free and wonderfully kept). In the museum there is a very fine collection of Italian Art (centuries worth up to present day) and also a Warhol of Vesuvius that is pretty far out. Oh, and the pizzeria across the street is really good and a fair price.
   
3. The best chocolate in Italy Dolce Idea
   
4. For the best shoes and leather goods at ROCK BOTTOM prices -the Poggioreale Market on Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Real Italian stuff with the brand names.
5. The best flowers are at the Capodichino Airport (well a block away toward the cemetery). You can buy 30 large stems of Stargazer Lilies for 10-15 Euro. Orchids -they practically give them away.
6. Most romantic spot for dinner -the cave restaurant in Posillipo. Imagine a Batman like cave that has been totally carved out by hand. The way the central dinning area is illuminated by candle light is soo wonderful. Did I mention they have a really good wine selection?
7. Relaxing at the thermal spas on the island of Ischia. The best one is up for debate and I won't go into that (unless you really want me to). Just being on the island is really nice.

Ok, that's all for now... Little Man is awake...

Greetings from Moctezuma & clowdy paradise!

Happy New Year everyone! I'm writing to you from not-so-sunny-at-the-moment Mexico where unfortunately Mr. Moctezuma is having his evil way with me. Well a few margarita days of distance have given me new perspective: I'm going through Italy withdrawal symptoms. I imagine it is like getting off of an addiction. All I want is a little pizza and some decent coffee none of which are in my immediate future. There is a place down here that has DOC Mozzarella on their pizzas but to tell you the truth I'm scared that they'll mess it up and at 250 Mexican pesos ($25 US Dollars) that is an expensive risk. But if I start shaking I've instructed my husband to give me a hit.

Speaking of which, I just downloaded my last photos of Italy. Take a look at our last Pasta Fagiol' in Naples -it was bar none -divine!

The Big Escape from Shitaly

So during this time of great silence from me you would NOT believe what has happened. In short order:

• trucker strikes delay the movers
• movers all act in unison to give us HIGH quotes to move our stuff back to the US
• getting the EU Passport for my pet was a real PITA with lots more money to pay
• huge collection of books got donated to library (this is the only feel good part)
• finally get some movers and after the pack up they quote us DOUBLE the estimate
• Telecom Italy decides that we need to be shut off early to close our account (no internet, no more email account and no phone)
• our local town decides to shut down the electricity for 4 hours while the movers are packing
• our stuff gets carted outside and rained on
• baby starts the terrible two tantrums with lots of 'NNOOOOOOOO's thrown in for good measure
• we don't sleep more than 4 hours a day

So in short this move has been a nightmare. As mad as I am for all of the typical BS in the Italian Beaurocracy of getting out of here in the end I miss it. Since we left Italy we haven't had a good meal or a good night's sleep. I miss home.

Italy on Strike

I know most of you have no idea that right now in Italy there is a MAJOR strike. Everything is on hold and there is no fuel to be found. The store shelves have run out of milk and bread over here -it is really getting crazy. Last night when I tried to find a gas station on the way to a friend's house they either had 4 city block lines of cars or were completely out of fuel.

So here I am sitting in my house still purging things left and right (it is OBSCENE how much this international move is costing us) with not a hope of getting a mover here this week. Right now they are telling me maybe early next week. This is where it gets hard living here. It feels like there is always something to get you -fuel strikes, garbage emergencies, transportation strikes, water shortages, the list goes on and on.

Yes, it is a big PITA but on the other hand the upside of that is you learn to live day to day, you become flexible, you enjoy conveniences when you get it, you help out/know your neighbor more and you learn to pray for the best but buckle down for the worst.

So, I'll just keep packing -and when this place gets decent enough I'll take some photos for you! Until then keep some positive thoughts for our move -we're going to need it!

What's for lunch in Napoli today

Cavolfiore e pasta! I say cavolfiore first because there was a lot more of that than pasta (you can tell pasta prices are up). Then the next course my Italian Anna prepared a locally caught trout in "acqua pazza" crazy water. 'What in the world is crazy water?' you may be asking well it is more than just water from the tap. It is water, garlic, a few small tomatoes, salt, pepper, olive oil and parsley. Pretty yummy stuff!

What I'll miss about my Italian life

There is nothing better in the morning than some, "Caffè alla Napoletana." There is NO other place in the world that coffee is this good. Watch this video of a guy making it in a real Neapolitan coffee maker (and witness why men don't usually make it at home) ;-)

What I'll miss about my Italian life

The tomatoes here! There are no words to describe how good tomatoes are over here -the volcanic soil adds a taste that is pure heaven. Here is a photo of some "sun kissed" (slightly dried) tomatoes.

Napoli Fast Food

Ok, just one more post before I go. So I've got 24 hours between trips and you might wonder what the heck do I do for fresh wholesome food?
Pizza. One of my favorite pizzerias is out in the country and it is called Bella Napoli. For 3 Euro I can get a full round of Pizza Margherita (tomato sauce and mozzarella) . Great price for something that is made from scratch and baked right in front of you. We usually also walk out with a bag full of fries -don't ask me why it is just tradition.

Here's a general hint on how to find a good pizzeria: look at the counter to see that all is fresh and check out the Pizzaiolo (professional pizza maker) to make sure they are plump (don't trust one that is skinny -I don't know why it is just tradition).

Napoli Road Rules

Driving in Naples is a hazard and an accident waiting to happen. The most dangerous road in Italy is in fact the Naples' Tangenziale (it is our main spine highway). You have to be on your toes all the time because you never know which direction they'll be coming from.
Here are a few rules:

1. It is common practice that if you should whizz by your exit it is no problem -simply go in reverse!
2. Speaking of whizzing -that is also an acceptable and common view on the side of the highway (I like to call it al fresco peeing). Though now they say it is illegal I've never seen anyone get ticketed.
3. Brace yourself when approaching an exit because you never know when someone will be passing you on the left to cut you off to make it to the exit on the extreme right.
4. When approaching a red light slow down and determine whether you can beat the traffic, the cop, or the old lady crossing the street and in all likely if you can STEP ON THE GAS AND GO
5. If there is a police car flashing lights behind you let them through (they need to get to mama's asap because they told her to "buta la pasta")
6. If a cop sticks out an over sized lollipop on you then you must stop or he'll shoot you (really)
7. During traffic hours there are double the amount of lanes than are drawn on the road so be prepared for full contact with scooters too

Remember: show no fear -they can smell it and use it to their advantage against you!

Photo is of an actual taped up Fiat going full throttle down the highway. If you look closely the driver's side door is taped to the passenger side to keep it closed. So does this mean those people won't be able to get out?

In a Blur

Halloween is my favorite secular holiday. However, this year it has come and gone without so much as a festive pumpkin in this house. I think my neighbors know something is up. I usually ask the children to make their own costumes and I decorate the hallway with skeleton drawings and ghosts. But, the truth is I'm feeling a little down. We are moving. We are leaving Italy for the US. I should feel happy and excited but instead I feel apprehensive and nervous.

I've lived here for EIGHT YEARS. There have been a lot of really good moments: we’ve welcomed in the millennium here, I gave birth to my first child here, we've met some extraordinary people here and we've traveled so much that there is not a bit of room in my passport for another stamp. There have been really low points too: my mother dyeing without a chance to say goodbye, having my house broken into twice (the last time we were in the house and I was 9 months pregnant) and having to put my dog down this summer.

I’m still trying to make sense of it all (if that is even possible). I’ll miss so many things and yet I think it is time to move on.

So what's there to see in Napoli?

What do you show an Adorable Friend from Paris when she comes to visit? Tough question but my answer was to take her to Spaccanapoli! It literally means 'split Naples' because it splits this ancient city in two, this street is also called the Decumano. This area was deemed a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997.

There is a lot to see and do in this area including great shopping for presepe/creches, good luck charms, great pizza, good museums and a really good look into the chaotic streets that I have become immune to.
Adorable Friend was amazed by the amount of everything and I was amazed by the things she pointed out that I don't even notice anymore. I don't notice the laundry hanging from everywhere, the stay animals, the trash piles, the dodging of the scooters, the level of noise, the amazing fall sunlight and sky, the rich smells of the ragu cooking, the pungent fruit stands with melone, kaki (persimmons), melograno (pomegranate) and all the other fall fruits. So here are a few pics for you to enjoy the short tour full of saints and sinners.

All countries beginning with an "I"

Do all countries beginning with an "I" have crazy roads? I've been to India and I can vouch for them when I say 'YES!' India is a wonderfully chaotic place and not one that you would necessarily go to for a completely relaxing holiday. You can find cows, camels, monkeys, children, peacocks, dogs, mules, elephants etc. on any street on any day. You learn to expect it really.

The roads are crazy enough here in Italy that I don't expect this sort of ménagerie. When I lived next to a dog breeder here it was usual to see him running his dogs by holding the lead from his scooter(!). Since I've moved more into the country now I see horse breeders running their horses from the comfort of their cars whilst holding out the reins. Is this even safe?

One of my favorite parades here is when they move the sheep to other pastures. I love that the entire road is clogged up with these bleeting white clouds. It is also a good chance to "fill the pockets with money." As they say here, "I'm not superstitious but it doesn't hurt to follow superstitious traditions." When you see sheep the tradition is to pantomime picking the sheep and putting them into your pocket for future wealth. Does it work? Who knows but it is worth a try -no?

Roasted & Steaming Napoli anyone?

Over the past few days it has been so hot and humid here that it feels like I'm in Chinese steamer. However, the really nice part is that the city feels abandoned (except for all of the luxury cruise liners). My favorite things to do this time of year are:

1. to eat huge portions of slightly chilled anguria (watermelon)
2. go into the deepest parts of the city (you know the ones with practically no sunlight and lots of laundry)
3. eating tasty tomatoes in every possible recipe (fried, cold soup, pasta sauce, gelato, bread, roasted, sun "blushed," salad, pickled, poached)
4. go shopping! Some of the sales this year have been very good to me
5. sleep quietly because my neighbors are out on vacation (no car honking, door slamming, kid shouting, tantrum having, name calling going on)
6. drive around like a maniac -traffic isn't so bad right now
   

However, it feels like there are more people in town than last year. When they all return in September I will be taking my sweet escape to London for the weekend. I cannot wait to sink myself into a cozy chair with some CHEDDAR, a cup of tea and plenty of mags. Hopefully, it won't be too hot. What are some of your favorite things to do this time of year?

Rules for Parking Neapolitan style

Just like with anything south of Rome the rules get dented here in Napoli. Let's take for example parking.

• Rule #1 All parking is to be done socially. Don't even think of parking where you don't see any other cars. This is because either it is sure to be stolen or broken into (or both within 10 minutes)
• Rule #2 It is okay to double park or triple park as long as you drive either a nice car with tinted windows or a large delivery truck
• Rule #3 All parking is free (including the sidewalks) as long as you have a lookout or your Mama is in the car to argue with the traffic violations officer
• Rule #4 Handicap parking is for anyone -why discriminate against those who aren't?
• Rule #5 Don't be cheap with the parking attendant, what you don't pay him now you will pay for the damage later
• Rule #6 Bumpers are made for parallel parking -how else do you know when to stop?
  
• Rule #7 You can block traffic, parking or even the hospital ER all in the name a quick coffee.

Next time we will review driving for foreigners. Stay posted!

Is it the last day in July already? Napoli beach season!

I cannot believe how July has flown by so quickly! We are now quickly approaching Italy's Ferragosto (Day of the Assumption). Everything either shuts down or is unexpectidly on "sciopero" (strike). Cities turn into ghost towns and everyone is either at the beach improving their eternal tan or out of the country.

Here in Naples, if you are of any means, you head for another Mediterranean beach such as those in Greece, Tunisia or even as far away as Sharm-el-Sheik (ok, that's on the Red Sea). For these lucky locals the airport has even built a new terminal for their package tours -it is called (drum roll please) Terminal 2! Yes, we have a very small airport for being such a large city.

The majority of locals who can't afford to leave usually end up at one of the many local private beaches. The beaches are mainly private because that is the only way of assuring both the cleanliness of the beach and the amenities of a sun chair and umbrella (not to mention a covered parking space). Trust me when I say that you wouldn't want to be on a public beach -the things that wash up would be better suited for a Cabinet of Curiosties. Some of the better ones also provide a lifeguard, cafe bar, cafeteria, "animazione" (entertainment mainly for the wee ones), workout equipment, private changing rooms, etc. In other words, you'll feel like you're at a resort.

Since I have a little bambino I am constantly reminded to take him to the beach. Here it is medically necessary to take little ones to the seaside because the airborne iodine helps to develop their little lungs. The sun also "fa benne" because being pale in summer is just not good -they need to 'toughen up the skin.' Even when I try to explain that sun damaged skin isn't a good thing for a family prone to skin cancer they just shake their heads and say, "live for today don't worry about tomorrow."